Cutting Baseboard and Installing T-Nuts

	Okay, after racking my brain for a couple of days, I still couldn't figure out how I was going to mount all the pieces together. The center oval (that was left after cutting the 4" rail off) wasn't going to be big enough, because it would only reach out to where the rail started (because remember that the rail cam from that piece). Therefore, I couldn't figure out a way to mount it to the racetrack and rail. I had to get a 3rd piece of plywood to use as my "baseboard". Cutting this piece is quick and easy. Just remove the racetrack oval, lay it on top of the new baseboard, and trace a circle around the outside of the racetrack. Remember to mark your astericks for proper alignment later!
	Then you can quickly cut the baseboard so that it matches the diameter and size of the outer portion of the racetrack.
	Cutting in progress.
	Here the baseboard has been cut. This entire sheet will stay in this form, and the other pieces (i.e. the racetrack, center/felt insert, and the padded rail), will just lay on top of it.
	Here is a sideview of the baseboard, racetrack and center/felt insert.
	Now it's time to install the T-Nuts into the center/felt insert. You're looking at the racetrack (bottom) and the center/felt insert (top). Both of these pieces are laying on top of the baseboard (which you obviously cannot see in the picture). Also pictured are the 3/4" Spade Bit used to countersink the T-Nuts, the 10-24 x 5/16" T-Nuts, and the 10-24 x 1.25" Machine Bolts. Note, although the thickness of the table here is 1.5" (i.e. 3/4" baseboard and 3/4" center/felt insert), I found that if I used 1.5" bolts they would stick up the top of the T-Nut and protrude through the top of the table. Therefore, I used slightly shorter 1.25" bolts. These worked perfectly.
	Once the holes are drilled, you can use your Spade bit (or Forstner bit) to shave out a small portion of wood for countersinking the T-Nuts. I used a 3/4" Spade Bit, and took out just enough wood so that my T-nut would fit into the groove and still be flush with the top of the table. It doesn't have to be perfect because this entire table top will soon be covered with foam and felt/cloth.
	First clamp all the pieces of wood together so that they don't slide around. Next drill your holes. I think I used a 1/4" drill bit here. Test out the size on some scrap wood first. It should be wide enough for your machine bolts to go through, but not too wide. It should also be wide enough for the T-Nut base to fit into it.
	Here an angled view of one of my countersink holes.
	I hammered in the T-Nut. Everything fits perfectly. Now I test it by screwing in the bolt from the bottom of the baseboard. It should screw right up into the T-Nut, and actually pull the T-Nut down into the wood a little further.
	It's hard to see, but I drilled 8 holes in the center/felt insert for T-Nuts (3 on each side, and one at each end). I drilled my holes a few inches from the outside edge, but you want to be cognizant of where you're going to be mounting your table legs, etc. so there isn't any overlap.
	Here is a closeup of the installed T-Nut.